Learn how Pakistan adopted an all-American favorite. A thick roll, stuffed with thinly sliced beef and smothered in cheese sauce. You recognize it, you adore it — it’s the Philly cheesesteak.
Yet, as delicious and iconic as the cheesesteak is, it’s also equally American. Despite the cheesesteak’s popularity in the U.S., it’s hardly known (and often regarded as unappealing) outside the U.S.
However, one place defies the norm. The cheesesteak has won the hearts of people in a very unexpected part of the world.
That place is Lahore, Pakistan.
The second largest city of Pakistan, situated in the northeast of the country, enjoys the cheesesteak in various forms. It appeals to everyone — from broke students to wealthy elites.
What is the reason for this? How come Pakistan of all places is crazy about a typically American fast food dish?
Let’s discover!
Similar yet Distinct
The cheesesteak’s origins in Pakistan are not very ancient — they date back to only about 40 years ago. There’s a simple explanation for that.
Before the 1980s, processed cheese — a crucial ingredient in a cheesesteak — was almost unheard of in the country. It was imported in small quantities, but it was very expensive.
But as the ‘80s came along, they also brought the first local Pakistani processed cheese makers. At the same time, due to the favorable U.S.-Pakistan relations, young Pakistanis started coming to America to study.
One of them was Khurram Chaudhry, a current IT professional. He attended high school in NYC in the late ‘80s, which is also when he had his first cheesesteak.
To his astonishment, the sandwich seemed oddly familiar. He recognized that Sizzler, a restaurant his family owned in Lahore, was already offering something similar.
“It wasn’t named a cheesesteak, but for me, it was a Philly cheesesteak that was being served at the restaurant,” he said to Philadelphia magazine.
However, for the moment, processed cheese stayed costly. Sizzler’s initial “cheesesteak” sandwich was an expensive meal, limited only to those affluent.
The Luxurious Cheesesteak
Things started to get more available as the ‘80s changed into the ‘90s. Travel from Pakistan to the U.S. rose significantly as the turn of the century got nearer, whether for study, work, business, immigration, or leisure.
Many Pakistanis had their first bite of good ol’ American fast food — and they enjoyed it. Scratch that, they adored it.
This ignited a real fast food boom in Pakistan, with burger places and sandwich stores appearing across Lahore. Among them were restaurants serving a now more genuine cheesesteak.
One of the earliest sellers is a restaurant named Zouk. Opened in 1995, it asserts to be the one to bring the cheesesteak to Lahore.
Of course, Sizzler’s sandwich already existed at that point. But since it wasn’t named a “cheesesteak,” Zouk can claim to be the first.
“We have provided the steak sandwich since the first day, and it remains the most popular item on our menu,” said Zouk’s general manager Faisal Ilyas.
Competition soon emerged, though. In 2001, Freddy’s introduced its cheesesteak, while CTC began operation in 2003.
Yet one thing linked all these new rivals. They all aimed to keep the cheesesteak as an upper-class, exclusive dish (despite it being very cheap here in the U.S.).
It would take one more actor in the game to popularize the cheesesteak.
A Rapid Success
In 2021, a Philadelphia man went to Lahore to meet with Mazhar Hussain, a local chef. He showed Hussain a video of a cheesesteak being made.
The chef had worked for many upscale restaurants but had never seen a cheesesteak before. Yet, he liked what he saw in the video.
“I saw the amount of meat and cheese being added to it and knew right away that it is going to be a success,” said Hussain.
Soon after, Hussain launched Philly’s Steak Sandwich restaurant in Lahore’s Johar Town area. But his establishment is a bit different from its rivals.
Hussain offers the cheesesteak to everyone. People from all backgrounds queue up for his sandwiches, available in three flavors — pepper, jalapeno, and fajita.
“The steak sandwich is extremely popular with everyone,” Hussain said.
Yet, local college students form the majority of his customers. They can enjoy a delicious meal for cheap, a bit over two bucks.
Philly’s Steak Sandwich has also adopted another American invention — the drive-through. Many of Hussain’s customers get the sandwiches to eat in their cars.
One of them is schoolteacher Sana Batool, who buys the sandwiches for her children. “This is their weekend treat,” she said.
Local Variation on American Classic
But what did Philly’s Steak Sandwich do differently than its rivals? Apart from the lower prices, there’s another important factor in the restaurant’s rapid success over just two years.
They adapted the flavor.
Many of the upscale cheesesteak restaurants make their sandwiches as closely to the American originals as possible. But Hussain’s joint does it a bit differently.
They begin marinating their beef early every morning in local red chili powder and tikka masala spices. By the time the restaurant opens at 4 p.m., the meat is full of flavors that Pakistanis are familiar with.
“In my first meeting with the [restaurant’s general manager], it was decided that we’re going to add our unique spices to the steak sandwich,” said Hussain.
“I believe a major factor behind its growing popularity is this fusion of the flavors of Philadelphia and Lahore.”
And the popularity is indeed increasing. The general manager, Adil Mehmood, has been featured on both television and newspapers, describing his and Hussain’s plans to expand their restaurant into a franchise.
Perhaps Philly’s Steak Sandwich has put its own variation on the Philadelphia original. Yet, their product is and has always been a authentic cheesesteak at heart.
And the people of Lahore can’t get enough of it.